Horse’s Breakfast – Cordoba, Spain

…When I was a kid, my mother gave us ‘horse’s breakfast’ before school. Horse’s breakfast? I ask, perplexed. It is fresh bread soaked in red wine. So you had bread soaked in wine, and then went to school?   How old were you..? Alvaro, a Portuguese gent whose acquaintance was made in Chefchaouen, offers a…

Big Footprints – Volubilis, Morocco

…The highlight of the tour is the brothel, and the famous phallus stone.  It’s not too clear what the stone’s purpose was, but it is leeringly suggested by the guide to be a sort of bench mounted dildo… It’s a typically hot and sunny, Moroccan autumn day.  From the foot of the hill I can see…

Gold Mine – Brusson, Italy

  Guido picks us up in the Aosta Valley, in far north-west Italy.  Guido is 33, tall, lean and has a winning smile.  He is the sheriff of his small village. The name of Guido’s village is Brusson, which means “gold mine”, but all the gold ran out centuries ago. As we wind along the…